Techniques and Processes Part II

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Erasers!  Pens!  Inks!  OH BOY!

Sorry it's taken me so long to get on this, a lot has happened between the last Techniques and Processes post and this one.  I hope you found the last one useful, and I hope you continue to find these posts to be helpful.  If you have any questions, feel free to email me or leave a comment on the blog.  I plan to do some product testing blog posts in the future.


PENS:

Copic Multiliners
Image via www.dickblick.com
Copic Multiliners are a bit expensive, but fantastic.  They hold up really well, have replacement ink cartridges, and you can even replace the nibs.  I used to use Sakura Microns, but made the switch soon after entering SCAD, and am happy with my decision.  I have sizes .07, .5, .3, .2, .1, .005, and .003 (which is so tiny I have trouble scanning it).  Currently I do not use nibs because I have trouble controlling my fine motor functions, and I find Multiliners to be much easier to control than nibs.

Pentel Pocket Brush:

Image via www.jetpens.com
Most comic artists I know swear by these pens.  The ink is not exactly fantastic (it's kinda thin, honestly), but the brush has individual bristles and can replicate a lot of traditial brush techniques.  I'm sure you can even fake drybrush with a dying cartridge, but I haven't tried this yet.  I love these brushes because they're cheap and refillable.

White Ink/Correction

Hybrid Gel Grip

Image via www.dickblick.com
Pentel makes some of my favorite comic tools, it seems.  I've used a Jellyroll in the past, but this ink is more opaque, the pen clogs up less, and the grip doesnt hurt my hand.  I really use this thing a lot.

Correction Ink:

Used with a watercolor brush.

Image via www.dickblick.com

Man, this stuff might be bleedproof, but it's kind of a pain to work with.  Doesn't cover up problems with the first pass, you can't really ink over it (because it'll dissolve and make a muddy mess), dries sorta shiny.  I wish I could quit you.

WHITE GOUACHE

You're only really using this for correction, so the brand doesn't matter.  Gouache is great for opacity, but it tends to build up fast, and you can't use nibs over it.  You have to be careful even using multiliners over it.  Both gouache and the Bleedproof Ink take awhile to dry, too.

This isn't white.  I realize this.  It's Process Cyan.  My personal white gouache is packed away with my traditional inking supplies.  This will have to do, in case you don't know what a single tube of white gouache looks like.  Mine is actually this brand.  Image via www.dickblick.com
While we're on the subject of correction...

ERASERS

I am super picky about my erasers, and have tried a bunch.  The one brand that never fails to disappoint me is Mono.  I have all sorts of Mono products, but I wouldn't say that I have mono, if you know what I mean...

Erasers for nitpicky places:

Image via www.jetpens.com
Image via www.jetpens.com
 These awesome little suckers (I have both models, btw) are fantasstiiiccc and refillable.

Image via www.jetpens.com
Another amazing Mono product that is refillable and lives in my pencil bag.  Replaced the Tuff Stick eraser I used to use.

Image Via StationaryArt.com
And because not all of my mistakes are tiny, the HUGE Mono eraser also has an important role in my pencil case.


Electric Erasers

Are not just for the lazy, as I have previously thought.

What I currently use:

Image via www.dickblick.com

What I used to use, liked, but it got a short:

Image via www.jetpens.com
 The problem with electric erasers is that every model requires its own brand of eraser.  I've had three electric erasers so far, and have packs of refills for each.  Both models use AAA batteries, but the Sakura model has a better battery life.  Both do really well tearing through bluelines that would otherwise cause huge pencil smears.

Next Time:  Rulers, Guides, General Supplies

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